Stefan Glowacz
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| Personal information | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | German | ||||||
| Born |
March 22, 1965 Bavaria, Germany | ||||||
| Retired from competitions | 1993 | ||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||
| Type of climber | Sport climbing, mountaineering | ||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on 1 April 2013. | |||||||
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Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965 in Bavaria, Germany) is a professional rock climber and adventurer.[1] He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's best sports climbers only few years later. Since 1993 he has been devoted to natural challenges such as expeditions to remote places in Canada,[2] Patagonia and Antarctica.
Success in sport climbing
- 1985 Sportroccia
- 1987, 1988, 1992 Rock Master
- Winner of the Olympic Games' demonstration challenge in Albertville
- 1993 Vice World Champion
Achievements in rock climbing
- In 1994, Glowacz climbed "The Emperor's New Clothes" (X+/8b+/5.14a), elected the hardest route in the Alps for at least 9 years
- First ascents of big walls at the Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern Greenland; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada
- In 2001, he succeeded to be the first in fulfilling the trilogy of hardest multipitch routes of the Alps (all established in 1994), including Thomas Huber's "End of Silence" (X/8b/5.13d) near Berchtesgaden and Beat Kammerlander's "Silbergeier" ("Silver Vulture") (X/8b/5.13d) in the Rätikon
- In 2006, he was nominated for the Piolet d'Or for establishing a 27-pitch route (IX+/7c+/5.13a, A2, M4) up the north wall of the Mullarón in Patagonia.
Books, Films
- Jäger des Augenblicks
- Richtig Freiklettern
- Rocks around the World
- Hoch hinaus
- Titlis – Chronik einer Erstbegehung, DVD
- The Race, DVD
- On the Rocks - Leben an den Fingerspitzen (2005, Piper)
- Cerro Torre: Scream of the Stone, (1991, directed by Werner Herzog), DVD
Seven Giants controversy
In winter 2013, Glowacz climbed up on one of the pillars of the Manpupuner rock formations in the Komi Republic, Russia. However, the local Mansi people, who worship the pillars, consider it a great sin to climb those peaks. The pillars have also been recognized as one of the Seven Wonders of Russia, and are a protected site threatened by erosion caused by unauthorized tourists, as in this case. [3] [4] [5]
References
- ↑ Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering. Rocky Mountain Books Ltd. pp. 407–. ISBN 978-0-921102-59-5. Retrieved 27 November 2010.
- ↑ George, Caroline (June 27, 2008). "More Details on Baffin's "Long Way Home"". The Alpinist. Retrieved 27 November 2010.
- ↑ "Sacred for Mansi Manpupuner rock formations may fall in the near future". 2013-09-23. Retrieved 24 September 2013.
- ↑ "Немецкий альпинист повредил одно из семи чудес России". 2013-04-21. Retrieved 24 September 2013.
- ↑ "STEFAN GLOWACZ CONQUERS THE SEVEN GIANTS IN SIBERIA". Retrieved 24 September 2013.